What you always wanted to know about Oily Skin and the best tips to manage it
This month, we wanted to talk about oily skin, not only reserved to teenagers.
Around 20% of the population suffers from skin considered as oily and another 20% fall under combination skin type.
As spring is now there, the production of sebum will be triggered by the warm and humid environments, so we have gathered the best tips for minimizing it.
First a bit of background:
Oily skin occurs when the sebaceous glands in the skin make too much sebum. Sebum is the waxy, oily substance that protects and moisturizes the skin, that’s why sebum is good for keeping the skin healthy but with too much sebum, clogged pores, acne or oily skin can appear.
Oily skin, like all the skin disorders (dry skin) can be due to an imbalance in the composition of the microbiome (= good bacterias living on the skin and creating the ecosystem of the skin).
Disruptions in the balance on either side can result in skin disorders or infections. Perturbations affecting the host–microorganism relationship can be endogenous (for example, genetic variation that selects for a specific microbial community) or exogenous (for example, hand washing).
Our understanding of health, disease and infection of the skin, microbiologists, immunologists and dermatologists have partnered with genomic scientists to develop a complete characterisation of the microbiome and how it interacts with us.
The Skin Microbiome Elizabeth A. Grice and Julia A. Segre
Genetics and Molecular Biology Branch, National Human Genome Research Institute, National Institutes of Health, Bethesda, Maryland, 20892–4442, USA.
For instance, Acne is characterized by the presence of strains of the bacteria Propionibacterium acnes that secrete lipases, proteases and chemotactic factors for neutrophils, resulting in acute inflammation of the pilosebaceous unit. While P. acnes is the predominant bacterial species in oily areas of the skin, P. acnes strains in acne patients are distinct from those found in healthy individuals.
Understanding the mechanisms of the dysfunction of the skin allows us to know exactly on which factors acting to prevent or treat oily skin and particularly acne.
Oily skin that is linked to genetics can be difficult to prevent. Even oily skin caused by changes in hormones is challenging to control.
The best prevention for oily skin is for an individual to find a consistent skin care routine that works, and to stick to it.
Here is our practical recommendations:
1) Cleansing: It has to be twice a day: morning and evening
As the opposite of what we would have assumed, we should use very gentle cleansers. If you use too harsh detergents which remove the oily, protective layer of oil altogether, the skin will naturally overproduce more to compensate, and that will create a vicious circle.
Why cleansing again in the morning? Because the skin is detoxing during the night so it worth giving an extra wash to remove potential impurities in the morning.
I suggest using micellar waters, foams or gels and avoid creams and milks, which have a heavier texture.
Marine’s selection :
- Gallinée facial foam: I love the smell, the texture, the effectiveness and the idea that it takes care of my microbiome
- Ren Cleansing gel: I love the texture and the feeling of freshness
- Avene micellar water: it really helped me keep my oily skin balanced
Select a day and night cream carefully to match your skin type. Most of the dermocosmetic brands propose a “lighter” version of moisturisers such as emulsions.
It has to be non-comedogenic (which is tested not to block the pores). But most of dermocosmetics brands are.
Why should I use a moisturiser if my skin is already oily?
Good question but oily doesn’t mean hydrated. Actually, if you don’t moisturise, this will produce the opposite as a dehydrated oily skin will again tend to overproduce sebum to compensate. More than 80% of the population gets a dehydrated skin.
Also you probably would like to get other benefits in your day cream such as sun damage, first wrinkles, etc … and do not forget that there are fantastic moisturising creams which are also mattifying!
- Bioderma – Sebium range
A master in the treatment and rebalancing in dermocosmetic world
- Esthederm – Propolis cream
Very soothing and propolis has anti-inflammatory properties.
La Roche-Posay – Serozinc Face Toner Mist: a must have in your bag ! One spray during the day and your skin is back to mat again and it treats in the meantime.
3) Use facial masks:
Mask is not just an extra work to do but also a perfect way to rebalance and treat your skin issues sincerely.
There is an essential part of the routine to get healthy skin. After gentle exfoliation, follow up with a face mask, this weekly step of the oily skin care tips is vital.
If you love doing your pampering and you have a T-Zone, you can use two covers: one for the zone and one for dry areas, so you save time and get the perfect result!
- Gallinée – Face mask and scrub
It contains kaolin and white clay that exfoliates, smoothes, purifies and mattifies.
- Ren – Glycolic mask
Instant radiance guarantee with its gentle fruits acid.
4) Treat from the inside
A proper and balanced diet keeps the skin from acting up. It may help to stay hydrated, avoid greasy foods and trans fats, and to eat a well-rounded diet full of whole foods.
As a food supplement, you can take Zinc, it helps to our skin to oxygenate itself by reducing excess sebum. It’s also a powerful antioxidant that can heal wounds and calm inflammation. This is why it’s often included in acne treatments.
As phytotherapy, we will recommend the burdock root, it also relieves the skin as a way of the evacuation of our toxins and sanitises its pores thanks to its antimicrobial action.
The Newest in Science:
The microbiome discovery and the knowledge of its role and potential interaction with the health of our skin has allowed a new range of dermocosmetics to emerge. Pioneer on the market, Gallinée, create by a Dr in Pharmacie, Marie Drago, contains a unique formulation with pre, pro and postbiotics to take care of the “good” bacterias on your skin.
The proliferation of the beneficial bacterias leads to the diminution of the bacterias responsible of acne and nourish the natural protective layer of the skin.
Management of the moderate acne:
In any case, acne with pustules must be addressed to a dermatologist but you also can follow the same routine as for prevention.
Some treatment for clearer your skin are available as Effaclar from La Roche Posay with Niacinamide helps to visibly reduce the appearance of spots. Lipo Hydroxy Acid & Salicylic Acid work to unclog blocked pores. Zinc PCA controls sebum to mattify skin and control shine. Procerad helps to reduce the appearance of coloured marks. Also from Avène, you can find Triacnéal that will help you to target blemishes, marks and the ﬁrst signs of ageing, so that those looking for clearer skin and anti-ageing care no longer have to compromise.